Talad Noi is a historic riverside neighbourhood in Bangkok that lies between Chinatown and Bangrak and dates back before the founding of Bangkok. The gritty streets and multicultural heritage distinguish it from the rest of the Thai capital. Quaint, yet elegantly weathered commercial buildings line the narrow, winding streets. It is a world apart from other parts of Bangkok.
The winding alleyways are lined with junk shops crammed from floor to ceiling with engine parts. The neighbourhood is also home to numerous lovingly maintained local houses. There is also a lively scene of trendy cafés and restaurants that reflect the modern tastes and culture of this historic neighbourhood.
Talad Noi is a true paradise for photographers, as there are fascinating motifs just waiting to be captured on every corner. The historic architecture, the colourful street art, the narrow alleyways and the lively atmosphere offer countless opportunities for impressive photos.
Even in a city known for its vibrant diversity and cultural splendour, Talad Noi in Bangkok is a very special gem. This historic neighbourhood opens a gateway to a bygone world.
Talad Noi (also known as Talat Noi), which means ‘small market’, is best explored on foot.
Before we get into the sights you can discover in Talad Noi, let’s understand the historical context of this original neighbourhood of Bangkok.
The historical footsteps of Talad Noi
The Siamese capital of Ayutthaya was destroyed by the Burmese in 1767. Those who fled from the invading troops founded a new capital further downstream in Thonburi on the west bank of the Chao Phraya River. A palace and Wat Arun (Temple of Dawn) were built to symbolise the new capital.
Only 15 years later, in 1782, King Rama I, after ascending the throne, moved the capital from Thonburi directly across the river to Rattanakosin. The Chinese community of Ayutthaya, which had settled in Rattanakosin, was resettled in neighbouring Samphanthawong, now the famous Chinatown. The displaced Portuguese community of Ayutthaya was also given a small piece in Talad Noi, centred around the beautiful Holy Rosary Church they had built.
Talad Noi became Bangkok’s first harbour, where most of the new immigrants landed. Ethnic groups such as Chinese, Vietnamese and Khmer came to Talad Noi with the Portuguese, bringing with them a variety of ethnicities and religions.
Eventually, the Portuguese established a larger community in Thonburi around the Santa Cruz Church and the atmosphere in Talad Noi became very closely linked to the Chinese community. And it still is today.
Over the decades, Talat Noi has retained its Chinese heritage, which can be seen in the ornate temples, architecture and narrow alleyways. The neighbourhood has become a fusion of cultures, a melting pot of Thai and Chinese traditions. The maze-like streets are home to hidden gems such as shops, traditional medicine shops and family-run eateries.
Talad Noi was a centre of the shipping trade until port facilities were built downstream in the early 1940s. Many local workers, who have always been resourceful, set up a used car parts business that continues to this day in the part of Talad Noi known as ‘Sieng Gong’.
The beauty of this district is that, although it has been modernised, it has retained its old character. It successfully combines contemporary amenities with the historical flair of times gone by. Many residents have lived and worked in this neighbourhood for generations.
How to get to Talad Noi?
There are many ways to reach Talad Noi Bangkok. It is generally a well-connected neighbourhood in the heart of Bangkok. We recommend you allow enough time as you can easily spend a few hours to half a day or more exploring.
Public transport – Bangkok’s MRT runs directly through Chinatown. Hua Lamphong is the closest station, but you can also get off at Wat Mangkon if you want to explore Chinatown before travelling to Talat Noi. From Hua Lamphong station, it is only a 10-minute walk to Talat Noi.
Boat – Talat Noi is easy to reach by river boat. The nearest landing stage is the Marine Department, which is served by many different lines. The green, yellow and orange Chao Praya Express boats all stop at the Marine Department.
Talad Noi – What is there to see?
Wat Traimit (Golden Buddha Temple)
From Hua Lamphong MRT station, take Exit 1, which will take you onto the busy Rama IV Road. Cross the bridge over the canal (Khlong) and walk down Mittaphap Thai-Chinese Road to Wat Traimit (about 500 metres). Wat Tramit is home to a 3 metre high seated Golden Buddha statue.
It is said to weigh 5.5 tonnes and is considered to be the world’s largest Buddha image made of solid gold. Historians believe that this sacred figure is over 770 years old and originates from the ancient Siamese capital of Sukhothai (13th-14th century). If you visit this temple, you should dress respectfully.
Chinatown Gate (Odeon Circle)
From Wat Traimit, walk the 130 metres to Odeon Circle, better known as Chinatown Gate. This colourful architectural gate is located at a roundabout where Yaowarat, Charoen Krung and Tri Mit streets intersect. Note the two important inscriptions. At the bottom is a Chinese inscription meaning ‘ground’ or ‘earth’ and at the top is a word that can be translated as ‘heaven’. According to Chinese belief, you receive special powers if you stand exactly at this point between the two sayings.
Wat U Phai Rat Bamrung (Chùa Khánh Vân)
The temple dates back to the late 18th century. A community of Vietnamese immigrants had settled in the area and received the land from King Rama I, the first king of the Chakri dynasty. The immigrants built the temple, which was originally named Chua Khanh Van in Vietnamese. It was one of the first Vietnamese Buddhist temples in Thailand.
Wat Pathum Khongkha Ratchaworawihan
About 150 metres further along Song Wat Road is the temple of Wat Pathum Khongkha Ratchaworawihan (or Wat Pathum Khongkha). This ancient royal monastery dates back to the early years of Rattanakosin (Old Bangkok). It was built in the architectural style of the Ayutthaya era and is characterised above all by the large white and gold stupas that gleam in the sunlight, as well as the ornately decorated entrance doors to the temple.
The temple was a place for royal cremation ceremonies. It also served as an execution site for Prince Kraisorn, who committed a rebellion against King Rama III. According to royal protocol, he is said to have been executed with a sandalwood club to the neck. The stone on which his head was placed for this beating is said to still be in the temple complex.
Hong Sieng Kon
Look out for Hong Sieng Kong with its blue building front and small red sign. Hong Sieng Kong is an excellent example of the gentrification that is taking hold in Talad Noi. Hong Sieng Kong is a retro Chinese-style café that literally transports you to 1920s Shanghai.
The Hong family, long-time antique dealers in Bangkok, bought three 150-200 year old dilapidated Sino-Portuguese buildings at this location several years ago and have restored and linked them together to create this venue. The restoration emphasised the original features of the buildings and their storied years, including the preservation of the original exterior wall held together by ancient fig roots. The vaulted, open-plan interior is also ideal for displaying antiques from the family collection.
To prevent people from just stopping by to snap a few photos and leave, there is an ordering station as you enter the café where you can only proceed once you have purchased something. Stop in for a coffee, a cold drink or a bite to eat, because Hong Sieng Kong is worth taking some time to explore and enjoy.
Chow Sue Kong-Shrine
The ornate Chow Sue Kong Shrine is located just a few metres from Hong Sieng Kong. It is said to have been built in 1804, making it one of the oldest temples of the Hokkien Chinese community in Talad Noi. The temples of this era were designed to face the river as it was the main means of transport. This shrein still has its own pier. Chow Sue Kong Shrein also plays a major role in the annual vegetarian festival.
Take a look around the various rooms of the temple and look for the statue of the famous Chinese doctor and herbalist Chow Sue Gong with his dark skin, golden robe and crown. Legend has it that for the safety of his patients, the doctor always tested his remedies on himself before prescribing them to others. Unfortunately, one particular remedy turned his body black and was fatal.
So Heng Tai Mansion
Turn into Duang Tawan Alley, walk past a large ghost tree wrapped in ribbons and turn right into the next alley, passing an abandoned and rusty Fiat 500 on the corner.
The So Heng Tai Mansion is the next stop on this alley. Built over 200 years ago in the Hokkien-Teochew architectural style, the building is a group of four houses surrounding a large courtyard.
The descendants of the original Chinese merchant families still live on site. A few years ago, they caused a controversy when they set up a deep pool for a diving school and a café in the central courtyard to raise money for the ongoing maintenance of the historic buildings.
Street Art
The concrete walls of a 100 metre long alleyway have become a popular canvas for Talad Noi’s street art. The alley also has a sponsored photo exhibition of various local photographers on one wall. The street art begins at the front of Mother Roaster Coffee Shop.
Our must-try: Mother Roaster Coffee Shop
One of the hippest cafés in the area – downstairs a junkyard for car parts, upstairs a trendy café.
This café in an old teak building is well worth a visit. Walk past the piles of scrap metal on the ground floor and up the narrow staircase. Let yourself be surprised!
Marine Department Building and Pier
Although the kingdom had been engaged in continuous maritime trade with foreign countries since the 17th century, in the 1850s Siam began to levy customs duties on arrival instead of harbour dues. To establish this system, Captain John Bush, a British seaman, was appointed Director-General of the newly established Harbour Office. Captain Bush took office on 5 August 1859 – a date that is known and celebrated today as the founding day of the Port Authority. In those early days, the site of today’s Ministry of Marine was a hub for trade and shipping. The two-storey neoclassical building on the waterfront is a reminder of this history.
Siam Commercial Bank
Erected in 1906 on the banks of the Chao Phraya River, the majestic Siam Commercial Bank building was inspired by Beaux-Arts and Neoclassical architecture. It was the Kingdom’s first locally operated bank and is still in operation. Set on emerald green lawns, the bank is undoubtedly one of the most picturesque in the city. During opening hours, you can stroll through the grounds and take a look inside.
Holy Rosary Church (also known as Kalawar Church)
There are not many Catholic churches in Bangkok. The Holy Rosary Church is a beautiful golden yellow church that you will undoubtedly pass by. Built in 1786 in the neo-Gothic style, the church has a rather plain façade, but inside you will find a beautifully painted ceiling, Roman Catholic stained glass windows and various sculptures and religious artefacts.
The current church was built in the neo-Gothic style. It has a cruciform ground plan, with the main façade facing the river. The church tower with its cross spire is built into the centre of the façade behind a Gothic gable. The church has Gothic doors and windows throughout, and the stained glass windows are among the most beautiful in Thailand.
Over the years, it has been renovated and repaired to preserve its beauty. However, it is not the original church built by the Portuguese community when they relocated from defeated Ayutthaya. The original completed church, then called Kalawario, was burnt down.
Our summary
Other attractions, cafés, guesthouses and shrines are scattered around this neighbourhood. You will undoubtedly find many hidden gems. Talad Noi is a fascinating community and well worth exploring this unique neighbourhood of Bangkok. If you enjoy travelling off the beaten track, this could be just the place for you.
Talat Noi is one of the best places to eat and drink in Bangkok. There are a particularly large number of hip cafés here. Save your caffeine needs for when you’re here. You can easily spend the whole afternoon hopping from one cool café to the next while exploring the main sights.
With its unique charm, Talad Noi reveals hidden corners where junked car parts are scattered amidst the narrow alleys and old shophouses. The piles of weathered metal create an intriguing contrast with the vibrant street art and traditional Chinese-Thai architecture that define this historic neighborhood. In these corners, the industrial remains coexist with the cultural heritage.
Talad Noi exudes an authentic vintage character that will make the hearts of lovers of times gone by beat faster.